Wednesday | January 25, 2006 | 3:24 PM
Sushi A-Go-Go

With a name like Sushi A-Go-Go, how could I not go here? True to the sixties spirit, the place is light and fun, with large decoupage flowers on the walls. Apparently, Wednesday is “theater night” in the city (I thought every night was theater night in New York) and because this place is so close to Lincoln Center, it was packed. I had the choice of waiting 20 minutes for a table or sitting at the sushi bar and I chose the latter.

There are five seats there and I was stuck with the center; on each side was a couple of which the man seemed to be trying to impress the woman. On my right, the guy was rhapsodizing on the varying grades of sake and talking about trips he’d taken to Paris. On my left, the guy ordered a good half dozen different combo platters of sushi and kept telling the woman “Try this! It’s great!” Then he got into an argument with the waiter over bringing him a certain sauce that he was unable to describe, other than he thought it was dark colored and sweet and he’d had it once in New Jersey and it was great. I’m not sure how well these guys’ ladies were getting on because they didn’t get much of a chance to talk.

I had miso soup, served in a wood bowl, and an order of spider rolls, which were large and attractively presented with pieces of lettuce sticking out like sails. I ordered one bottle of warm sake, then another, while watching white-smocked Asian sushi chefs behind the counter smoosh fish bits into artful shapes with their bare hands.

Sushi A-Go-Go

  • 1900 Broadway
  • (212) 724-7340
  • Meal 5 of 52: miso soup ($2.75), spider roll platter ($9.50) and two warm sakes ($6.50 each).