The restaurant Gino is renowned for its glossy red wallpaper, printed with slung arrows and leaping zebras, their white yellowed but stripes still vivid black. It’s like the pattern on the necktie of a crazy uncle, and probably as old. Until the post-6:00 p.m. dinner crowd began trickling in, I appeared to be the only diner there who hadn’t lived through World War II, which is when the restaurant opened.
Five people were already eating dinner when I arrived, or one for every member of the waitstaff, who talked among themselves against the far wall. The servers were dressed in starched gray tuxedo jackets with cuffs trimmed red, black bow ties and pants. They greeted by name several of the regular patrons, who were tight-faced women in big sunglasses, gorgon hair or Bloomingdale’s hats, and lots of rings. The men were dressed in knit shirts and sportscoats.
Bluebloods aside, loosened-tie neighborhood types drank at the polished wooden bar in front, and after awhile, additional younger people arrived to eat. A strange scene, although unless the draw is an ironic hipness to mingle with the elderly, it’s probably for the large menu and no-nonsense Italian food.
I had the stuffed zucchini, topped with finely chopped herbed meat, breaded, sauced, then draped with three stripes of mozzarella and broiled. Tasty! Post meal, my server brought out my espresso still in its old-fashioned aluminum moka pot and poured it for me.
Gino
- 780 Lexington Ave. (between 60th and 61st Streets)
- (212) 758-4466
- Meal 27 of 52: stuffed zucchini ($14.50), glass of house red wine ($5.50) and an espresso ($3.50).