I dunno, Death & Co.: I expected Old West saloon-style double doors. Maybe Daniel Day-Lewis shouting, “I. Drink. Your. Cocktail!” Instead, the imposing wood and steel facade, which has no windows, was blocked by a large but friendly man with opaque sunglasses who asked, “You flyin’ solo tonight?”
“Uh, just me,” I said.
“Hold on. Lemme see if they’re ready.”
He had me wait outside while he disappeared through the front door. He emerged a minute later and waved me in. I’m telling you, if you want a seat at Death & Co.—and I’ve tried to get in three times before, only to be given the option of being placed on an extremely long waiting list by the guy outside—go right when they open at 6:00 p.m. I was the only person in there and when I’d left by 6:45 or so, there were only six people.
Surrounded in the low-lit, sumptuous setting (lots of dark wood, thick marble-topped bar, comfy stools), I had a Double Fill Up (rye, muddled mint, lemon juice and pomegranate syrup), which was served to me by head bartender Philip Ward. And I didn’t even think until now to ask him whether the drink’s name is a pun on his own. With my dinner, I wanted something spicy, so I ordered a Fresa Brava (muddled strawberries and lemon with jalapeño infused tequila). It paired well with my mac and cheese (of course) which was served as a surrealist might: on eight silver spoons, arranged on a flat square plate in a circle like pedals on a flower. I didn’t understand it but it tasted good.
Overheard gossip: the Death & Co. owner’s next big venture is going to be a tequila bar. “The owner’s got a big mouth,” said Philip the bartender with a certain degree of annoyance.
Death & Co.
- 433 E. 6th St. (between First Avenue and Avenue A)
- (212) 388-0882
- Meal 30 of 52: two cocktails ($12 each) and mac-and-cheese ($10).