New York Changing
Though I was there late last month to see The Destruction of Lower Manhattan photo exhibit, I returned to the Museum of the City of New York for the New York Changing exhibit, which opened July 26th. Since moving here more than a year ago, I’ve become a fan of Berenice Abbott, whose WPA-era photos graced my recent entry on Penn Station. Furthermore, the style of the exhibit was actually the basis for my “95 Years Ago” entry, which showed then-and-now photos of my apartment building side-by-side.
Walking to the museum, I purposely crossed through Central Park at Mariner’s Gate off W. 85th Street for my own New York Changing experience. I wanted to look at this portion of the park from a perspective I gained from reading an AP article on Thursday (“Clues Sought in Pre-Central Park Village” by Richard Pyle) about Seneca Village, a 19th century settlement that once extended a third of the way into the park, from Central Park West to the Great Lawn, stretching from W. 82nd to W. 89th Street. The village was in the news because archeologists had been using radar to probe as far as 15 feet underground for evidence of relics revealing what life there was once like. Decisions to physically excavate the site will be based on the findings.
History once referred to Seneca Village as a squatters’ camp. That was likely because it was founded by free blacks, then settled by them and Irish and German immigrants. History now shows that many of the settlers were property owners and that the area included homes, churches, a school and a cemetery. In 1856, via the currently hot topic of eminent domain, the city paid-off and displaced some 1,600 people from the full 843-acre rectangle that would become Central Park, including the residents of Seneca Village, which was never re-established.
Walking across the site now, it’s impossible to recognize what was once there. Now it’s trees, rocks, paths, playgrounds and softball diamonds, and lots of open space to sun one’s self, as many people were doing today.


The exhibit, on the other hand, shows in a glance how New York has changed, for better or worse, in 70 years. It showcases 51 pairs of photos, placing vintage shots by Abbott next to ones taken recently by Douglas Levere. He took photos from the same place and at the same time of day and year as Abbott, even using the same large-format land camera, one that generates 8x10-inch negatives.
In general, Abbott deliberately avoided familiar views, although there are a few exceptions. The beautiful Flatiron building is thankfully the same in its 1936 photo as it is in 2001 and in fact is now the oldest remaining skyscraper in New York.
More often, however, the photos show what’s different. Crook-handled lampposts have given way to modern gooseneck streetlights. Once great features of the city—its elevated trains, grand old buildings, the Hudson Piers—have long since been demolished. “Skyscrapers complicate the view,” complains a typical placard at the exhibit.
A shot taken from Union Square by Abbott in 1936 shows the S. Klein department store on Broadway in the background, while in the foreground, the rear of Frédéric Bartholdi’s bronze statue of Marquis de Lafayette flanks a sapling. In 2002, the statue stands same as it ever was, the sapling has grown into a full grown tree and S. Klein has been replaced by a Toys “R” Us (which itself went out of business late last year).
I wanted to romanticize a photo of Abbott’s that depicts the Lyric Theatre, a charming-looking establishment plastered with ads for Charlie Chaplin movies and The Return of Peter Grimm, starring Lionel Barrymore. Then I read the photo’s description that such theaters in the Bowery during the Depression had a clientele that was “mostly transients.” But whatta deal they received: a newsreel, a short subject film and two features, all for 10 cents. When Levere rephotographed the scene in 2001, the Lyric had lost most of its ornamental facade and all of its charm, and had turned into a gay porn theater.
I was also intrigued by the fact that for more than a century, merchants sold Long Island oysters from houseboats docked along the East River. An Abbott photo from ’37 shows two of the last of them, the Brooklyn Bridge in the background and discarded shells heaped in the foreground like an omen. These fishmongers (molluskmongers?) moved to the Fulton FIsh Market, which itself is moving to the Bronx. It’s a city in perpetual motion.


1 Since then, I’ve discovered such rephotography is common. For instance, Eugene Atget’s classic photos of the streets of Paris have been retaken and cast side-by-side by Sophie Tusler (France), Tom Gore (Canada) and Gerald Panter (United States). [back]